Exploring Ohrid and Skopje, North Macedonia

North Macedonia was the final country on our 4th Anniversary Trip in November of 2020. It became a country in 1991 when it gained its independence from Yugoslavia. Referred to as the Jerusalem of the Balkans, Ohrid is known for once having 365 churches. We wanted to stop here before heading onto Skopje, since it is a cultural and natural site of UNESCO. Afterwards, we traveled to the capital of North Macedonia, Skopje. Skopje is the capital and largest city of North Macedonia. It is the center for everything political, cultural, economic, and academic in the country.

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Transportation

• Euro Bus: To get from Tirana to Ohrid, we took a 3.5 hour bus ride with Euro Bus. It was a small bus and a little cramped but it got the job done. For both tickets, we spent $38.

• Classic Company: To get from Ohrid to Skopje, we took a 3 hour bus ride with Classic Company. This one was also a small bus, but it ended up just being us and one other person so we had plenty of room to spread out! For both tickets, we paid only $22.

• Turkish Airlines: Once it was time to go back home to the US, we took Turkish Airlines from Skopje through Istanbul and ending up in San Francisco. We have taken Turkish Airlines several times in the past and always find them to be welcoming and as comfortable as a long flight can be in coach.

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Accommodations

• Velestovo House: For our stay in Ohrid, we spent the night at this apartment, located in the Galicica National Park.

It had insanely beautiful views of Ohrid Lake from our room and was well worth the $45 we paid for one night. The room was a modest size, but clean and comfortable.

• Hotel Senigallia: In Skopje, we stayed at this neat hotel that looked like a ship! It is located in the center of the city, right on the Vardar river (literally).

The room was comfortable and very unique, it reminded us of a cruise. For 2 nights, it was only $105.

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To-Do in Ohrid

• Tsar Samuel’s Fortress: This symbol of the city is one of the largest fortresses in Macedonia. It is huge and takes up the entire Ohrid hill, which is 100 meters above the lake. It was built in 209 BC, by order of the Macedonian king Philip II. Unfortunately when we visited this was closed to the public due to covid restrictions, but at least we got to see the outside. From the looks of it, it appears to be open once again for visitors.

• Antique Theater: This theater was built sometime at the end of the 3rd or beginning of the 2nd century, as a place for plays, musical and poetry performances. After the Romans conquered the region in 148 BC, the theater was changed into an arena for gladiator fights. Since this was at the bottom of Ohrid Hill, we walked past this on our way to the Tsar Samuel’s Fortress. It has an incredible view of the lake and mountains that surround it.

• Church of Saint John the Theologian: This church overlooks Lake Ohrid and is dedicated to John of Patmos, the writer of the book of Revelation, who some consider to be the same person as John the Apostle. The date it was built is unknown but some documents suggest that it was built before the year 1447.

It was definitely tricky for us to find this but we eventually figured it out and it was well worth the time spent seeking it. It was under construction when we visited so perhaps that’s why we weren’t able to go inside but the outside was beautiful and the views from the church were stunning.

We got there at the perfect time and were able to see the sunset on the lake.

To-Do in Skopje

• The Bridge of Art: This pedestrian bridge, built in 2014, runs across the Vardar River in the very center of the city. Along it, there are 29 statues of different Macedonian musicians and artists.

During our way throughout the city, we stopped at this bridge and took in the city’s history.

• Skopje Fortress: Located in the old town of Skopje, this historic fortress was first built in the 6th century but was destroyed and rebuilt throughout the years.

It was a little difficult to find the entrance and we did not see any workers or official gates of any kind. We read online before hand that admission is free and maybe that’s why. It seemed to be something of a bigger site before and perhaps because it was covid, that’s why it was lacking. The views of the city were great though so we definitely were glad that we stopped to see this!

• Macedonia Square: This is the main square of Skopje and the biggest in North Macedonia. Located in the central part of the city, it crosses the Vardar River. It was built between 1920-1940 but was redone in 2014.

In 2011, a monument of a Warrior on a Horse and fountain was built. This square was nice, but not necessarily a highlight for us. It is hard to miss since it is in the center of the city so you would probably come across it just walking around.

• Memorial House of Mother Teresa: Since Mother Teresa was born in Macedonia, is known as Skopje’s most famous person and is the only Nobel Peace Prize winner from Macedonia, a Memorial House was built in her honor. It was built in 2009 in the exact place where the old Catholic Church (Sacred Heart of Jesus) was that Mother Teresa was baptized in.

Inside we found many different items such as the signature white sari with blue stripes, (the official habit of the Missionaries of Charity), a copy of Mother Teresa’s Baptism certificate, a copy of the prayer book written by Mother Teresa and a copy of the Nobel Peace Prize. There were also dozens of pictures of all the work that Mother Teresa did throughout the years. Entrance was free.

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Food in Ohrid

• Restaurant Sveta Sofija: Built in 1988, this family-owned restaurant is located near the cathedral church of St. Sofia.

We stumbled across it after we were finished exploring the city. Originally we had only planned on having an appetizer and a bottle of  red wine but we ended up staying for dinner.

For dinner, we got a bottle of Macedonian white wine.

Jonah got the Selsko meso, which was pork chops in sauce with mushrooms, onions, dried peppers and tomatoes. It was served in a clay bowl with cheese on top. It was a hearty and tasty meal.

For the entree, Sierra got the Ohrid trout “tava” which was local trout with onions and dried peppers. It was fresh and flavorful.

For dessert, we shared a slice of Ohrid cake. It was a mix of caramel, walnut and chocolate and if we weren’t so full, we would have ordered another slice, it was so good! The total for the whole meal after tip was 5,010  denars (about $83), which with how much food we got along with 2 bottles of wine, was extremely reasonable.

• Shilla Coffee Shop: On our way back to our hotel, we stopped into this coffee shop to pick up some donuts for our breakfast the next morning.

They were delicious, perfect for a light morning breakfast and only cost us 100 denars (about $2).

Food in Skopje

• Old City House: Since 1836, this restaurant has been serving up traditional Macedonian dishes. It is the oldest traditional house in North Macedonia and housed 6 generations before being turned into a restaurant. It was recommended by a new friend we met on the bus ride from Ohrid to Skopje, who was visiting family when we visited.

Inside the restaurant was serene and comfortable, with a beautiful water fountain.

For the main course, Sierra had the chicken steak with fries, aka grilled chicken with fries. The chicken was perfectly cooked and seasoned well, although it would have been nice to have a little extra something to make it special.

For his entree, Jonah got the “a la chef” chicken, which was chicken in white sauce, with veal prosciutto and mushrooms, served with fries. The sauce was creamy and the entire dish well received.

For dessert, we shared some baklava, which was flaky and sweet. Our friend was generous enough to pay for our meal so we’re not sure of the final cost, but we know it was reasonable based on the menu prices.

• Senigallia: This restaurant is on the top deck of the hotel we stayed in and we ate here on our last night in Skopje. It serves a mix of traditional dishes as well as some foreign ones.

For an appetizer, we had the “shopska” salad, which was cucumber, tomato, shredded cheese and olives on top. It is a popular cold salad throughout Southeastern Europe so this was not the first time we’ve had it before. The salad is fresh and flavorful, although simple.

For the main entree, Jonah had the salmon with mixed vegetables. The salmon was tender and the vegetables cooked to perfection.

Sierra had the schnitzel which had beef, tomatoes and mushrooms. It was fresh and flavorful.

For dessert, we shared a chocolate cake served with ice cream. It was yummy, with the warm chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream to balance the chocolate. The total for dinner with tip was 2,030 denars (about $33).

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North Macedonia has so much to offer anyone and we are very glad that we made a stop here to take in all the gorgeous sites of this country!